160m, 4 pitches.
An interesting climb with fairly good protection and bolted stances. Take some medium nuts and twin 50m ropes - they are needed for the abseil descent.
Access: From the cable car station take the road to the hairpin bend and follow the base of the cliff down beyond the screen cone. About 50m after it you find the foot of a compact slab with a series of small overhangs above it. There is a red mark there (15 minutes).
Description: (Treat with much caution.)
1. VI 40m. Climb the slab and get over the band of overhangs on its extreme right. Take a stance a little way up on a tilted grassy ledge.
2. VII+ 35m. Go to the foot of an open near-vertical slab. Climb rightwards towards a obvious upside-down flake. Climb it and continue to and up a small dièdre (VII+) and then up a slab to the stance.
3. VI+ 40m. Keep climbing the slab then go left to flakes (VI+) and up them to a short crack underneath an overhang. Climb the overhang direct and traverse right using a white vein (quartz perhaps) and then climb direct to a stance on a grassy ledge.
4. V 40m. Climb rightwards heading for a yellow dièdre and ascend this to its top and a stance.
5. IV 40m. Climb the line of the dièdre to reach easier rock and large and unstable blocks.
6. III 35m. Climb over blocks and slabs and vegetation to the N Ridge.
Descent: Go down (north) the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down that route.
Access: From the cable car station take the road to the hairpin bend and follow the base of the cliff down beyond the screen cone. About 50m after it you find the foot of a compact slab with a series of small overhangs above it. There is a red mark there (15 minutes).
Description: (Treat with much caution.)
1. VI 40m. Climb the slab and get over the band of overhangs on its extreme right. Take a stance a little way up on a tilted grassy ledge.
2. VII+ 35m. Go to the foot of an open near-vertical slab. Climb rightwards towards a obvious upside-down flake. Climb it and continue to and up a small dièdre (VII+) and then up a slab to the stance.
3. VI+ 40m. Keep climbing the slab then go left to flakes (VI+) and up them to a short crack underneath an overhang. Climb the overhang direct and traverse right using a white vein (quartz perhaps) and then climb direct to a stance on a grassy ledge.
4. V 40m. Climb rightwards heading for a yellow dièdre and ascend this to its top and a stance.
5. IV 40m. Climb the line of the dièdre to reach easier rock and large and unstable blocks.
6. III 35m. Climb over blocks and slabs and vegetation to the N Ridge.
Descent: Go down (north) the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down that route.
Rossano & Valentino Libera, Davide Biavaschi & Vittorio Copes 1988.
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Route of Interest
S-challia grande
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Piz Alv)