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Climbs 45
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces N

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Dave Noddings on Pressure Drop, Speke's Mill Mouth, Culm Coast © Adam Long

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Many routes protected by in-situ pegs - and nothing else. Not perhaps for the faint-hearted, but good news for adventurers, who will enjoy Berrlins (HVS 4b/c whose holds "resemble loosely packed playing cards and should not be shuffled"), Hotpoint (E1 5b) and Zanussi (E2 5c with just 4 pegs in 120 ft - and nothing else).

The whole of the S side of the main slab here has fallen away taking with it every route from Berlin on the left up as far as far as, but not including The Wager at the landward end. What's left is a blank slab covered in loose wafers of shale, which may in a few years clean up to provide extremely bold slab climbing.

Approach notes

From Lymebridge (SS 237 228), those who feel like starting the adventure with their car's underside can drive down a rough track. Else just park in the town and walk.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Javu website new routes

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

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