UKC

Climbs 52
Rocktype Culm

Faces N

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Dave Noddings on Pressure Drop, Speke's Mill Mouth, Culm Coast © Adam Long

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Many routes protected by in-situ pegs - and nothing else. Not perhaps for the faint-hearted, but good news for adventurers, who will enjoy Berrlins (HVS 4b/c whose holds "resemble loosely packed playing cards and should not be shuffled"), Hotpoint (E1 5b) and Zanussi (E2 5c with just 4 pegs in 120 ft - and nothing else).

The whole of the S side of the main slab here has fallen away taking with it every route from Berlin on the left up as far as far as, but not including The Wager at the landward end. What's left is a blank slab covered in loose wafers of shale, which may in a few years clean up to provide extremely bold slab climbing.

Approach notes

From Lymebridge (SS 237 228), those who feel like starting the adventure with their car's underside can drive down a rough track. Else just park in the town and walk.

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