Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 14m a.s.l
Tim Blake on Opportunity Challenge (E6 6b) © Mark Savage
Vert technical climbing right next to the sea. Loads of stakes in situ. A double/triple rack of small cams, Tricams and Sliders help.
Three of the major lines were climbed by Duncan McCallum and Ian Cropley in 1988 following a tip off from Rab Anderson. These are the original descriptions. At the time the rock was much poorer than it is now, sandy and soft
Operation Wolf E5 (7b) . The step line of pockets just right of Taito, crux at 2nd BR. (4 BR) 17th Sept
Taito Corporation E6 (7b+) The pocked line about 30' right of MBP, climb wall past sandy pocket, (Bolt) up to a large hole (Bolt) dyno to next hold, then upto break via various small pockets (pegs) Finish. 16 Sept
Monster Beach Party E6 (7b) . The very central line, start at the farthest left end of a deep crack 10' off the ground , up to borehole (Bolt) up and slightly right (friend 2) up to Bolt, reach a two finger pocket, reach right to gain peg then to top. 26th Aug.
Drive S of Spittal on the coastal byway
|I recommend parking at one of the two concrete areas on the left just before the tarmac ends and the track begins. The track is a potential car wrecker and the walk from here is not far. Also beware of satnav which can lead you down an even worse track!
sparkass - 19/Jun/21
|Three of the main lines were climbed by Duncan McCallum and I Cropley in the 80's with a small number of bolts. Great they have been headpointed, but odd they have been renamed (why)
Duncan McCallum - 03/Jul/20
|An impressive wall of pockets and breaks, accompanied by a tremendous seaward vista, set in a delightful 'private' cove, only marred by the soft nature of the rock and the inevitable man-made marine debris . Fans of Nesscliffe scrittle will not be disappointed here!
Jon Read - 01/Jul/19
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