UKC

Rockfax Description
105m. A classic route up an incredible feature; it follows a distinct fault-line formed by a basalt dyke up the steepest section of the wall. Start 3m to the right of the giant flake of Strappado Direct below the fault.
1. 35m 4b Follow the vague fault on a selection of poor gear to a small ledge at the foot of a vertical chimney.
2. 35m 4c Continue up the vertical basalt staircase to a horizontal break (spike runner). More steep moves lead to another spike which protects the easier final section to a good belay.
3. 40m 4a Follow the basalt dyke to the crest of the buttress.
FA W.Sproul, J.Renny, J.Hall, 9 Aug 1965 © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Skye Rock , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Isle of Skye , North West to do , 3* sa Chuilthionn as t-Samhradh , Rope Solo , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Maoweee 9 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Not as bold as the guide/grade suggests with offset nuts and smaller cams. Still an outrageous pitch.
Show beta
βeta: Not as bold as the guide/grade suggests with offset nuts and smaller cams. Still an outrageous pitch.

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High E1
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High VS
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Votes cast 18
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
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Low 4b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
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Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(High Crag)

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