Rockfax Description
140m. Another amazing climb which, after crossing Stone, gets into the first corner-groove to the right of the big corner on The Chisel. Start some 60m above and right of Stone, above the lower slabs, and as far left as is possible to go from the giant inverted staircase.
1. 40m 6a Traverse left along a break then go steeply up a diagonal crack to a high niche. Alternatively, climb immediately up a short wall past inverted flakes (5c) then continue easily left to the niche. Step under the bottom right corner of the orange quartzy wall that forms the underside of the ramp on pitch 4 of Stone and continue until a thin crack leads up to the ramp. Belay level with a razor-thin flake which leads horizontally left.
2. 25m 6a Follow the flake left until it fades, then climb a shallow groove to a ledge under a large roof formed by the main horizontal break. Climb flakes across the roof and belay immediately in a large groove right of the main groove of The Chisel.
3. 25m 6a Step right and climb a crack in the arête between the two main corners until it joins the right-hand corner. Follow this to its top then traverse right to a ledge.
4. 20m 6a Climb a shallow groove until it blanks out at 12m then hand-traverse round a blank pillar and pull up to a superbly appointed belay seat like a pew (with a view!).
5. 15m 6a Step up and traverse left into an open groove which leads to cracks (junction with The Chisel) and pull out left onto a perfect square ledge.
6. 15m 6a If dry it is logical to finish up the corner of The Chisel above until it gets hard, then step right into a quartzy groove leading to the top. The alternative is to climb the open corner-groove on the right then traverse right to the arête and finish up a further groove.
FA M.Gardiner, C.Waddy, D.O'Sullivan (alternative P6), 4 Jun 2016 © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy, Rick Rodgers 1989.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Rock , James' Scottish trad Ticklist , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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