Rockfax Description
200m. This sensational climb was the first to breach the central defenses (Scottish VS and A2). It is now one of the classics. A golden eagle often nests on the ledge above pitch 5; it is important to check beforehand on the Mountaineering Scotland website whether the eagle is in residence: it is an offence to disturb the nest site. he climb starts at the lowest rocks beneath an open corner.
1. 25m 5a Climb the corner to a large flake on the right wall.
2. 35m 4b Descend a little, traverse right on the slab beneath the overlap, then go up a break to a slab under another roof.
3. 25m 5c Traverse left on the slab under the roof to a ledge. Go left again to climb an overhanging quartzy groove and exit left below its top to a ledge.
4. 25m 4a An easy quartzy ramp leads to a ledge beneath a big corner with twin cracks.
5. 45m 6a The original climbed the often-slimy off-width corner all the way, but it is better to climb an overhanging crack in the right wall. Gain it from the corner where the right wall bulges below the off-width. Traverse the lip of the bulge into the crack and climb it, strenuous and sustained but very well protected, to a ledge. Belay on the upper of two ledges below a corner.
6. 45m 5b Climb the corner until a small ledge on the right arête can be reached then traverse right into easier grooves leading to the top.
FA K.Howett, G.Latter, C.Henderson (pitch 5 crack), May 1985 © Rockfax

FA. Mick Fowler, Andy Meyers 03/Jul/1981.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Lewis Extreme , James' Scottish trad Ticklist , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs ****

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