Rockfax Description
150m. A truly outstanding climb, this is perhaps the best on the cliff. It takes a line through the prominent wide 'chiseled-out' corner in the middle of the face with an undercut flake on its left wall.
1. 20m 5b Start below and left of orange walls about 15m down and right of the start of The Scoop. Move up and right through overlaps until a wide break leads down and right onto a hanging wall. Continue right to belay in a central crack.
2. 35m 6a Climb the crack until it becomes a groove. Follow this as it curves right. At its top, traverse right to an arête and boldly climb this to ledges. A better protected variation (6a/b) is possible by taking a shallow groove to the ledge, starting about 3m before the arête.
3. 10m 5c Layback flakes on the left then raverse right to a large ledge.
4. 10m 6a Climb up right to the large horizontal break under the roof that is the most striking horizontal line on the cliff. Step left and pull steeply into the main groove to gain a hanging belay.
5. 20m 6b Now climb the main groove with difficulty and continue up left along the undercut flake until it finally eases near the arête. Pull over the roof to gain a footledge; very strenuous and exposed but well protected.
6. 20m 6a Climb a short groove to a lichenous bulge then move right and go up through this until a very exposed step right leads to a short, open groove. Climb this then a crack to pull out left onto a perfect square ledge.
7. 15m 6a Climb the corner above until it gets hard then step right into a quartzy groove leading to the top.
FA G.Smith, C.Waddy (FFA), 1994 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The central line on the main part of the crag has one of the wildest pitches in the British Isles.

FA. George Smith, Crispin Waddy 1994.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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