Rockfax Description
205m. One of the most prestigious lines on British rock; it is an amazing climb which gives a serious and committing undertaking of awe-inspiring steepness. It is possible to abseil off after pitch 3 but thereafter it would be problematic. Start up the slope below the huge scooped corner-line which runs up towards the highest point of the prow. Scramble up some delicate slabs to an in situ peg belay.
1. 20m 6b Step down and move up to an overhang. Climb this and a short wall (old bolt) with a delicate move onto a sloping ramp. Ascend the awkward overhanging wall above then move right to a hanging belay.
2. 25m 6b Move right and climb a short steep crack in the back of the groove to a ledge with numerous pegs; possible belay. Step right and go up a cracked rib to enter the fine open corner above then climb this to a comfortable ledge on the left.
3. 25m 6a Continue up the corner-groove to a roof then make thin moves left and continue up to a hanging belay below the main corner.
4. 25m 6b Climb the exposed 'flying groove' out left by a series of wild layback and undercut moves. The groove above leads to an overhang which is turned on the left by an extremely exposed move around the arête. Continue strenuously up a thin crack and a huge flake to the sanctuary of a lie-down sofa ledge.
5. 15m 5c Step down onto the huge flake and traverse left in a sensational position. Continue the traverse line with increasing difficulty to a corner below the left end of the roof to a hanging belay. The pegs are in poor condition and there is little else, so it may be better to continue!
6. 25m 6a An awkward move gains the groove above. Take the left arête to a slab then follow a slim undercut groove right to a good ledge under the imposing capping roof.
7. 20m 6a A serious pitch. Move right and up to peg runners then climb back down and traverse right to a bulge. Make a series of committing moves through the bulge to a line of welcome jugs leading to a belay on the lip of the overhang (peg).
8. 50m 5a Traverse left under a block overhang and go up to a ledge, turning any difficulties on the left. Now climb rightwards to the edge, which leads to the top.
FA J.Dawes, P.Pritchard, 6-12 Aug 1987 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The steep awesome line weaving exposure between terrifying overhangs.

FFA. J.Dawes, P Pritchard Aug/1987.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Lewis Extreme , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Ultimate Scottish Rock , 100 Worthwhile E7's , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

Feedback Always Hide βeta