Climbs 12
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces all
St Anchorite's Rock and Hermit Arete © Kafoozalem
Crag features
The rock on the main crag is a fine grained igneous intrusion of dolerite which has been quarried on its northern side. The two 'South Face' climbs face the coast path. The 'North Face' climbs are, rather cheekily, accessed from the field on the left as you approach the crag or by abseiling from the top. Ivy is easily removed from the smooth rock if it has taken hold.
The rock of the Hermit Arete area is something more sedimentary and quartzy but also of a high quality - rather surprisingly so for the South Hams!
Approach notes
Park up on the coast road 2 miles east of Noss Mayo/Newton Ferrers at a footpath giving access to the coast path. Follow this east.
The Hermit Arete bouldering area comes up first after about half a mile. Since the 2018 South Devon guidebook was published fences have been erected with clear signage stating "PRIVATE No public right of way". To avoid disregarding these carry on along the coast path for a further 100m descending obvious wooden steps. At their base, pass through a gate and, where the coast path continues straight on, turn right and follow the fence down towards the sea. A gate without a sign will magically appear. Go though this and walk back uphill to the Hermit Arete rocks. Be discrete! A couple of photos have been uploaded that should help.
The DWS can be approached by following the Hermit Area advice but not going through the gate and instead heading straight on to cross the stone wall.
The main crag is clearly visible a couple of hundred yards further on up the coastpath.
Restricted Access
St. Anchorites Rock main crag is close to the South West Coastal Path (20-30m) but apparantly on private land. There is a sign stating no climbing. There have been reports of climbers being asked to leave. Be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions.
As mentioned in the access notes, fences have been put up with signs stating "PRIVATE No public right of way" in the field above the Hermit Arete bouldering. The boulders themselves are not in this field, but on the 'coastal slope' to its south. Again be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. As of March 2025 the area seemed to be being used for pheasant breeding and probably shooting. Use common sense.
The DWS is tidal so has no private land problems onced you get down to the sea, but be discreet as you hop over the stone wall as this is not a public right of way.
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Climbs at this crag
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