UKC

Restricted Access

St. Anchorites Rock main crag is close to the South West Coastal Path (20-30m) but apparantly on private land.  There is a sign stating no climbing. There have been reports of climbers being asked to leave.  Be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. 

As mentioned in the access notes, fences have been put up with signs stating "PRIVATE No public right of way" in the field above the Hermit Arete bouldering. The boulders themselves are not in this field, but on the 'coastal slope' to its south. Again be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. As of March 2025 the area seemed to be being used for pheasant breeding and probably shooting. Use common sense.

The DWS is tidal so has no private land problems onced you get down to the sea, but be discreet as you hop over the stone wall as this is not a public right of way.

20m. A reef of good quality rock, with deep water below it can be found 100m or so SW of the Hermit Arete area. To get to it (at low tide!) follow the suggested route to the Hermit Arete area, but instead of veering right and going through the gate without a sign, go straight on and cross the stone wall and down to the sea. Coasteer round to the right /west, passing a steep bit on huge flakes. The route itself just traverses out and back on the reef. Each end is easy, but the central section is a blanker. There are two or three different height options. The best is on a very low tide where the crux stays low and you use a couple of sharp flake/pancake holds for your hands. The high version uses these holds as footholds with your hands being on the black rock. A rather eliminate and harder middle version can be forced between the two by not using any holds on the black rock and using odd undercuts and sidepulls. You might as well try all three, then have a quick snorkel in the gully, then leg it out before the tide gets too high.

Andy Pemberton Aug/2025.

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