UKC

Restricted Access

St. Anchorites Rock main crag is close to the South West Coastal Path (20-30m) but apparantly on private land.  There is a sign stating no climbing. There have been reports of climbers being asked to leave.  Be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. 

As mentioned in the access notes, fences have been put up with signs stating "PRIVATE No public right of way" in the field above the Hermit Arete bouldering. The boulders themselves are not in this field, but on the 'coastal slope' to its south. Again be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. As of March 2025 the area seemed to be being used for pheasant breeding and probably shooting. Use common sense.

The DWS is tidal so has no private land problems onced you get down to the sea, but be discreet as you hop over the stone wall as this is not a public right of way.

20m. Start below the large steep slab. Boldly climb the right-hand side of the slab via thin cracks (micro wires) to a steep groove which leads to a juggy finish.

Nick Hancock, Andy Grieve 11/Jul/1981.

Ticklists

South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS

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Guidebooks for St. Anchorites Rock

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
South Devon Cover
South Devon (2018)
The Climbers Club
By Pete Saunders
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Delicate traverse of the first pitch
Spider's Web

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)

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