UKC

Restricted Access

St. Anchorites Rock main crag is close to the South West Coastal Path (20-30m) but apparantly on private land.  There is a sign stating no climbing. There have been reports of climbers being asked to leave.  Be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. 

As mentioned in the access notes, fences have been put up with signs stating "PRIVATE No public right of way" in the field above the Hermit Arete bouldering. The boulders themselves are not in this field, but on the 'coastal slope' to its south. Again be discrete and comply with any landowner instructions. As of March 2025 the area seemed to be being used for pheasant breeding and probably shooting. Use common sense.

The DWS is tidal so has no private land problems onced you get down to the sea, but be discreet as you hop over the stone wall as this is not a public right of way.

10m. Start 1m left of a large metal pin. Climb steeply, then move left to pull through the slight overhang on positive holds. Some spiky plants.

Andy Pemberton, Steve Gibson 08/Jun/2016.

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Guidebooks for St. Anchorites Rock

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
South Devon Cover
South Devon (2018)
The Climbers Club
By Pete Saunders
Guidebook correction for this climb

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An exhilarating solo of The Devil's Slide, my 400ft intro to Lundy
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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