UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Classic! Campus traverse to good holds then heel hook and step up.

Ticklists

The LakesBloc Top 50 , Dyno Hero UK

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fbrimblecombe 4 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 'Dyno' to match on the left hold, then high heel and rock up
Show beta
βeta: 'Dyno' to match on the left hold, then high heel and rock up

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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Voting
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Calico Jack

Grade: f6A ***
(St. Bees Head)

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