UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ehmarra 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Spoke to the guy the guy who put up the fa and he said that the problem doesn't use the very good hold out and right of the arete, like the guidebook suggests. Stay close to arete. 6a+ with big hold out right. Probs why many think it's soft. See vid for fa https://youtu.be/nkr_FtbXFN8
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spoke to the guy the guy who put up the fa and he said that the problem doesn't use the very good hold out and right of the arete, like the guidebook suggests. Stay close to arete. 6a+ with big hold out right. Probs why many think it's soft. See vid for fa https://youtu.be/nkr_FtbXFN8

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Crack

Grade: f6C ***
(The Bowderstone)

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