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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

Climbs 37
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 191m a.s.l

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Side of broken buttress. © Afroclimber

Approach notes

Sept 2019. The landowner has stated that climbing is NOT permitted.

This is a special place which holds spiritual significance for a wide variety of individuals and groups. Park considerately at the church (especially on a Sunday), be discrete as the crag is on private land and please be respectful of the environment and anyone that you meet here.

Walk through the churchyard and a kissing gate. If the ferns are down, follow the path below the crags towards the chapel. The crags you pass here hold some routes and some bouldering. Above and beyond the chapel is a small buttress which holds some short routes and bouldering. Beyond this is what looks like a big vegetated lump; the main crag. Contour the slope to reach the base of the main crag.

In the summer, when the ferns have turned the aforementioned approach into an epic battle, turn right at the kissing gate and walk along the top of the crags.

There might be a Barn Owl living in the large crack of Minny-Digger.

In previous years, birds of prey have nested above the bouldering cave.

 

Did a summer approach through the braken and brambles, not so much fun (actually, lots of fun and a bit of adventure...). Next time will either try and bring something to cut things down a wee bit, or approach from above.
Jaidigi - 17/Aug/19
Really enjoyable climbing on a sunny winter day. Approach not too bad (although still a bit of a battle against the brambles) but some of the gorse at the top and bottom of the climbs on the main crag are a bit of a prickly challenge. Magnificent holds though and peaceful solitude make this well worth the visit (and pop in to the church and holy well too).
Jaidigi - 28/Dec/18
This crag is especially good when the ferns etc are down. On a sunny day in winter, it can be a real sun trap. On a Sunday morning you might find the church car park is a bit busier than normal. To avoid having to hack through ferns turn right at the kissing gate and walk through fields along the top of the crag.
rhudson - 25/Jan/15
Very overgrown in June 2014. Hacked our way through head-height bracken and brambles to the base of the main crag. The climbing was pleasant enough, but would treat a lot of the apparent gear placements with caution; many of the obvious pockets/breaks are hollow-sounding or crumbly. Interesting crag, and worth a visit if you've been to Roche or Hawks' Tor too often, but take some cutters and gardening gloves for the approach if you visit!
jayjackson - 08/Jul/14
Very overgrown in July but certainly worth another visit. Great rock!
Rob - 16/Jul/13
Delightful setting. If some kind soul could take secateurs with them the bramble population really needs attacking before they get out of hand later in the year.
Kafoozalem - 04/Mar/13
Well worth a vist. Lovely location, short but good quality routes. Sunny and out of the wind when we went on a cold February day.
andrea83 - 02/Feb/13
Really beautiful place, amazing peaceful chapel/well and nice climbing on solid rock and brilliant pockets. Recommended.
Tom Last - 24/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

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