60m, 4 pitches. 1) 4b, 20m. Start off on lower tier underneath overhang by rock pool, climb to overhang and surmount on right to ledge just left of Fuzzy Peg start. Climb the slab and pull over boulder to belay below overhang.
2) 4c, 10m. Pull through the overhang on a rightward trending crackline, easy climbing to belay below niche in headwall.
3. 5a, 15m. Step up into an off-balance niche, step left and pull up on side flake, surmount overhang on left to join slab of original route of Silmaril. (Belay at bottom of dirty coloured slab - walk off or pitch 4).
4. 15m. Make a day of it, scramble to top of Coetan for some smashing views.