Restricted Access
Excellent Gabbro crags that should be easier to find with the new 2013 guidebook! Best on afternoons and summer evenings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a nest site at Mur Cenhinen. Please do not climb the following routes until 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan' inclusive. This is the extreme right hand side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff.
There is a Ravens' nests adjacent 'Binary Fission' (Craig Hebog), please avoid this route 1st March to 1st July and minimise disturbance in these areas.
60m, 4 pitches.
1) 4b, 20m. Start off on lower tier underneath overhang by rock pool, climb to overhang and surmount on right to ledge just left of Fuzzy Peg start. Climb the slab and pull over boulder to belay below overhang.
2) 4c, 10m. Pull through the overhang on a rightward trending crackline, easy climbing to belay below niche in headwall.
3. 5a, 15m. Step up into an off-balance niche, step left and pull up on side flake, surmount overhang on left to join slab of original route of Silmaril. (Belay at bottom of dirty coloured slab - walk off or pitch 4).
4. 15m. Make a day of it, scramble to top of Coetan for some smashing views.
2) 4c, 10m. Pull through the overhang on a rightward trending crackline, easy climbing to belay below niche in headwall.
3. 5a, 15m. Step up into an off-balance niche, step left and pull up on side flake, surmount overhang on left to join slab of original route of Silmaril. (Belay at bottom of dirty coloured slab - walk off or pitch 4).
4. 15m. Make a day of it, scramble to top of Coetan for some smashing views.
FA. J.Grant, D.Brown 20/Jul/2014.
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Guidebooks for St. David's Head West
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Route of Interest
Spacewalk
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)