Bridged... © chriscarroll
This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag's colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) RESTRICTION LIFTED JUNE 26TH 2022
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
|Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06
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