UKC

Climbs 74
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Faces S

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Tom Bunn at the crux of Skyfall. © Señor Último

Crag features

Remote and beautifully positioned well above the sea, the main face of St. Loy is a challenging, just off the vertical, wall of rounded granite. The climbing is superb but the protection on the harder lines is some of the worst and taking to the air is not recommended. Although the approach is a relatively long one, the scenery on view from the coast path is charming.

St. Loy is located well above the sea, has a sunny aspect and dries very quickly.

Approach notes

There is no short way to this cliff due to the lack of parking anywhere near the closest public footpaths. There is a right-of-way to the coast path through Treverven Farm, where there is a well-equipped campsite. Climbers must enquire at the campsite office about parking. 

From Treverven Farm, go through a gate and follow a grassy track to a junction with the coast path. Walk east along the coast path for approx. 500m to reach the top of St. Loy Cliff.

Parking is also available in a field just west of Trevedran Farm (honesty box). To reach St. Loy from here, walk east along the main road for 200m. Turn right through a gate, and follow a public footpath through the delightful wooded valley to reach the coast path. Follow this westwards for approx. 800m to reach the top of St. Loy Cliff.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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As fantastic as usual despite the minimal amount of lounging boulders at the bottom. Uncle Nick's pro-parking recommendation is still available and easy to use without blocking access. Finesse is steady E3/4 with only 2 5c friction moves away from good gear and with a possible soft ledge landing. The Baldest is much harder with an okay crux and then several 5b/c friction moves with a 20m fall potential if the very hidden RP is missed. Both excellent routes .
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

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