Rockfax Description
60m. Another excellent route. The second pitch takes the superbly situated crack on the prow, right of the finishing corner of Shadow on the Wall. Start at the crack-line right of Walking on Air.
1. 25m 6a Climb the right-hand of two cracks for 4m, then move left to the other crack. Continue up and right, then back left to follow the crack to the break. Belay left of the large block.
2. 35m 6b Take the crack directly above the belay to a small niche. Step left to a large hold then traverse left into the right-facing corner. Go up this and make precarious moves left into a left-facing niche. Climb the diagonal fault to another niche, pull directly up to a wedged block and jam the butch crack leftwards to glory. The precarious crux can be bypassed at about 5c by traversing left at a lower level for 3m or so and climbing a crack to the left-facing niche.
FA R.&C.Anderson, 2 Sep 1989 © Rockfax
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Crack apprenticeship - Highland North , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Ultimate Scottish Rock
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Reiff - Roinn a' Mhill)