130m, 6 pitches.
A reasonable climb and low in the grade. You'll find large hexcentrics to be of use. Start at the far west-side of No2 buttress, 10m left of a small square recess. Pitch 1 (15m 4b) Climb the steep crack to a ramp, move up blocks and belay in a corner on the right-hand side of a ledge. Pitch 2 (10m) Climb the corner, and then the right-slanting offwidth crack, belay on a fine ledge. Pitch 3 (20m 4a) Tackle the short steep wall, which offers a nice thread runner, up to a choice of corners. Take either one, moving right under a bulge to belay on a large ledge. Pitch 4 (20m) Romp up the slab on the left, and trend right to the tower. Once at the foot of the tower, step down and left onto a grassy ledge to a delightful thread belay and a boulder seat. Pitch 5 (40m 4a) Climb the short crack and then enjoy a knife-edge traverse towards the headwall, take the easiest line to another jolly nice ledge and a huge spike belay. Pitch 6 (25m 4a) Traverse left, bypassing the huge gully to a crack and a dissapointingly vegetated groove. Climb and trend slightly right up blocks to a choice of belays. Si Lynch 2009.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CaptainJimbad | 27 May, 2024 |
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βeta: Pitch 5 a serious proposition seriously undersold by the wired guide. Jump already a daunting distance made unjustifiable by slimy moss and zero protection. Leader went down slab at high risk before climbing back up to find belay. Second slipped while investigating and only a hardy handful of heather prevented a long fall. Slung rope round high point to give some pro for a down climb to move safely over lower slope - quite a detour. Great climbing on lower pitches but cannot recommend due to this danger. Final pitch also silly with rope drag. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 5 a serious proposition seriously undersold by the wired guide. Jump already a daunting distance made unjustifiable by slimy moss and zero protection. Leader went down slab at high risk before climbing back up to find belay. Second slipped while investigating and only a hardy handful of heather prevented a long fall. Slung rope round high point to give some pro for a down climb to move safely over lower slope - quite a detour. Great climbing on lower pitches but cannot recommend due to this danger. Final pitch also silly with rope drag. |
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| Calum3610 | 23 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Be careful, found at least one large loose block on each pitch including a huge loose disc on guidebook pitch three that you’ve no choice but to stand on after you’ve move out the groove up and left. Down climb on upper Arete after the grassy pinnacle is quite sketchy and way harder than the advertised grade of 4a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Be careful, found at least one large loose block on each pitch including a huge loose disc on guidebook pitch three that you’ve no choice but to stand on after you’ve move out the groove up and left. Down climb on upper Arete after the grassy pinnacle is quite sketchy and way harder than the advertised grade of 4a. |
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| Osiris | 16 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Pitch 3 + 5 (combined 1+2). Not bad. Loose massive blocks on pitch 5 precariously perched on the ridge traverse. Pitch 6 is mega veg. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 3 + 5 (combined 1+2). Not bad. Loose massive blocks on pitch 5 precariously perched on the ridge traverse. Pitch 6 is mega veg. |
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Route of Interest
Nightshade
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Reiff - Rubha Ploytach)