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Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
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First Stackpole Experience...steep! © shoulders

Crag features

What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke, and then you discover this place! The alluring, hanging grooves of Stackpole are home to some magnificent lines, such as Silver Shadow (E2), Swordfish (E3), the mega-traverse of Plane Sailing (E3), and the amazing arete of Always the Sun (E6), along with countless other quality classics. Yet it attracts fewer visitors than you'd imagine - this has almost certainly been a combination of bird restrictions, a tidal window that gives between 2 and 4 hours of play, and lack of a good crag shot. So we've deleted one issue right here - now go there in August with a tide timetable and keep that promise to yourself!

A word of warning though: away from the main three E2/3 routes, the crag sees little traffic, in fact many may well never have had a second ascent. Treat all the routes with respect and make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for before you commit yourself to the free-hanging abseil!

Approach notes

Approach from Broad Haven beach car park or Stackpole car park in 30 mins.

Abseil in, or for the determined, take the left-hand (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.

Access Advice

ROCK FALL JANUARY 2018

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea!
Drexciyan - 30/Sep/13
Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet. When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then!
Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

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