Altitude 460m a.s.l
Cathy's Clown (E2) at Staden © Alan James
A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).
Lower Quarry - As for Staden Main Quarry. But head through the field in the direction of the A6 till you reach a gate, cross this and down the track to a ruin the quarry is obvious on the left.
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents.
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