UKC

Climbs 124
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Cathy's Clown (E2) at Staden © Alan James

Crag features

Important note: 18/5/22 - Kestrel nest just around the arete/on Suscipiat - didn't seem happy with people climbing on the main wall but was ok with cliimbng on bicycle repair man. 

 

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Lower Quarry - As for Staden Main Quarry. But head through the field in the direction of the A6 till you reach a gate, cross this and down the track  to a ruin the quarry is obvious on the left.

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents.

Peregrine nest at the top of Suscipiat on joint effort wall
Fraser hill-casey - 08/May/22
Peregrine nest in cracks above abseil point on the bolted routes to the left of joint effort. Avoid until fledged.
jakej - 11/Aug/21
Cows have not been let loose on the field to graze for quite some time. If you suffer from bad hayfever avoid on a high pollen day or take extreme precautions. I was basically rendered useless on my last visit! The quarry acts like a pollen bowl.
Dominicgriff - 02/Jul/19
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

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