Climbs 649
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 444m a.s.l
Faces W

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Quietus Right Hand © Apharri

Crag features

Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and is the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin, the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the ranked classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.

The right-hand half of this section of the edge faces southwest and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Further left the cliff swings round to face due west, it gets the sun later in the day, and is greener in the winter. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.

Approach notes

The High Neb parking is the usual starting place - it is rarely full except on sunny summer weekends. The Long Causeway leads towards the cliff then bears away rightwards towards western Sheffield. A couple of stiles on the left lead steeply to a good horizontal track that runs below the whole of this section of the cliff. It is also possible to approach from the A57 from very limited parking near the crest of the hill. This is the quickest approach for the crags near Stanage End.

Access Advice

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

Updated by UKC: 22nd August, 2020 8:08

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Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.

good, quiet and underestimated part of stanage.
antoniusblock - 22/May/10
This is the same venue as Buckstone Edge aka the Buckstones aka Nont Sarah's. PLease see for bouldering details.
bentley's biceps - 08/Sep/08
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