UKC

Climbs 654
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 444m a.s.l
Faces W

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Quietus Right Hand © Apharri

Crag features

Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and is the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin, the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the ranked classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.

The right-hand half of this section of the edge faces southwest and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Further left the cliff swings round to face due west, it gets the sun later in the day, and is greener in the winter. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.

Approach notes

The High Neb parking is the usual starting place - it is rarely full except on sunny summer weekends. The Long Causeway leads towards the cliff then bears away rightwards towards western Sheffield. A couple of stiles on the left lead steeply to a good horizontal track that runs below the whole of this section of the cliff. It is also possible to approach from the A57 from very limited parking near the crest of the hill. This is the quickest approach for the crags near Stanage End.

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

To allow helicopter operations to take place and assist conservation and habitat works in nearby upland areas, the following car parks will be affected next week:

- Upper Burbage: partial closure from Tuesday 22 February, with a full day closure later in the week (weather dependent) to allow helicopter access.

- Popular End car park: partial closure throughout the week for materials storage.

- The Plantation car park: will remain open as normal, but please observe any on-site signage related to recent timber works. National Trust car parking is also available at the Longshaw Estate for members and as Pay & Display.

Please do not park on local road verges as this can restrict farm and emergency access, and conditions may be particularly poor following recent wet weather.

from 21/02/2022 to 25/02/2022

 

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

 

Updated by UKC: 22nd February
good, quiet and underestimated part of stanage.
antoniusblock - 22/May/10
This is the same venue as Buckstone Edge aka the Buckstones aka Nont Sarah's. PLease see http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9058 for bouldering details.
bentley's biceps - 08/Sep/08
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