Altitude 450m a.s.l
Stanage Edge, Derbyshire Peak District © sheffylongjohn
Stanage Popular - the name says it all really. The most popular section of the most popular crag in the UK - there is almost always someone climbing here, whatever the weather and whatever the time of year. Of course this popularity is with good reason, an abundance of classics across the grades, on perfect rock and in a stunning setting; a crag to return to again and again. Visit on a cold crisp winter day, or linger on into the twilight of a late summer evening, come alone or with good friends; however you do it, there is a lifetime of memories waiting to be harvested from the Queen of Grit.
The edge faces southwest and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. This means it can get very hot on calm summer days. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit damp and sandy. Winter days can be mint, if the sun is out and the wind is absent or an easterly. Midges can make it unbearable here on calm days from May to September.
There is an elongated reinforced parking area below the right end of the cliff - a 5 minute walk away. This gets full fairly often on summer weekends - arriving early to bag a spot is an idea, or park at the Plantation and walk left to right.
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
|Would recommend to a friend|
Alex Hyde - 07/May/17
myrddinmuse - 30/Nov/16
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH