UKC

Climbs 126
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 425m a.s.l
Faces S

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Fiend braving bleak mid-July conditions on Pocket Wall, Standing Stones © Fiend

Crag features

Following the closure of the track to Rimmon Clough, the shortest approach (about 1.5km) is from the Pennine Way car park near the high point of the A635 Holmfirth to Greenfield road though it's rough going over the moor to reach and follow Rimmon Clough beyond which a vaguely visible path goes to the crag top. A longer approach is from Binn Green car park below Alderman, from where it's about 4km. The layby mentioned below is now closed. The crag is south-facing and has a worthy selection of routes though it is inclined to be a little gritty after rain due to the slope directly above the cliff. The chaotic state of the terrain below the cliff reveals that it was formed by a landslip and it has been suggested that Falling Stones might be a better name for the place though the central section of the cliff has stood in its present form for quite a time. However (see note below) in 1919 a section left of Smiler's Corner collapsed so routes between Kathryn's Crack and the butrees bounding Smiler's Corner have gone. That area always looked dodgy with mediocre routes. The rest of the crag was untouched.

The slope above the cliff is not the crisp clean top of the Eastern Edges; care required when setting up belays. Descents can be made round either edge of the cliff - again care required when wearing slick soled boots on grassy terrain.

30 March 2019 - Massive rockfall in the Ning, Nang, Nong, Bong area. Several tons of rock and earth now at foot of the crag.

May 2020 area around Echantillon and Upset at far left side of crag further rock fall. Take care. Greystone Pillar may also be suspect.

Approach notes

If approaching from above the crag, the recommended access has changed since the description in the BMC 'Over The Moors' guidebook. The approach as currently described is an undulating pathless slog, and in anything other than dry conditions anyone going that way would be pretty moist by the time they got to the crag.

Far better, is to walk along the road from the Pennine Way layby westwards for 1km to the gate, walk down the track for a couple of hundred metres before striking off directly across the moor to the crag. Or Head directly from the laybe to Rimmon Clough and follow it down to meet the original track (now blocked) by a gate at the road). Around 1km.

A longer (about 2km) but very scenic approach is also possible from the Binn Green car park - descend to the dam, turn left and follow the left bank of the reservoir to its end, then continue up the valley bottom until the crag is visible on the left. A steep walk up the slopes above takes you to the base of the crag.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)

Out of print:
Only 35 mins from parking at pass, as per BMC RAD. Bit damp underfoot in places and difficult route finding. The path doesn't seem to make it all the way to the road so it's 150m of bushwhacking. At the ruins you need to drop down right to the confluence rather than near to the ruins, then the faint path stays on the brow of the right side of the clough pretty directly to the crag, bearing off right as you get close.
simoncov - 24/Aug/19
The current advice about parking in the large layby is great, but the approach directly across the moor from there is not. The land is all Open Access despite the signs so don't be put off. The approach as currently described is an undulating pathless slog, and in anything other than dry conditions anyone going that way would be fairly moist by the time they got to the crag. Far better, and the way I've gone several times is to walk along the road towards Greenfield from the layby to the gate, walk down the track for a couple of hundred yards before striking off directly across the moor to the crag. Quicker and much less of a pain in the arse.
Frank the Husky - 18/Jul/19
Use the BMC RAD access directions from the big layby. Far easier than traipsing over the moors
D.botts87 - 23/May/19
the FA referred to has the moniker craig_h on these forums, you could contact him for the FA details
ste_d - 06/May/11
Does anyone understand to the comment below, can't find the climbs mentioned or the person who was meant to have put them up?
steveshaking - 05/May/11
There are some fantastic new routes to be found amidst the various buttress's, walls n' boulders to be found below Standing Stones. The first ascentist being Craig Hannah. Such gems as Pit Bull Crack HVS 5a, Silence of the Cams E1 5b, The Slug HVS 5b and Maestro HVS 5a, all fantastic routes..Contact Craig for further route info...If you find yourself Standing up at the 'Stones, they are certainly worth repeating, nice lines!
Phylis - 30/Jan/06
Access not normally a problem, phone Chris Crowther of Upperwood Farm tel: 01457-872094. A fine crag, sun trap and far from the crowds..Excellent routes.
Phil Davies - 05/Apr/05
Avoid Bong & Boo @ the Standing Stones These routes are not in the rockfax, but in the 1988 guide. The 30ft high pinnacle which separates these routes is very unstable and it wouldn’t take much for the whole lot to come off. The pinnacle lies between route 1 & 2 in the rockfax.
craig h - 07/Jun/04
Appears to be some sensitivity about parking at or near the now blocked layby ("we should start clamping" - farmer/ranger (?) in a landrover) and access across the moors. Parking further down the road towards Greenfield might be advisable, as would checking with the farmer as suggested in the guidebook.
seth - 16/Jun/03
The access layby on the Greenfield/Huddersfield road has been blocked with large boulders to prevent parking. (Room for 1 very small car) 13/06/03.
craig - 13/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

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