UKC

22m. Climb the left-hand and wider of two chimneys, and gain the top of the huge block on the right. Pull up and left (crux), pass left of the small fir (not used), and climb the straight crack to a ledge. Either traverse left to a double bolt belay or, better, step right and climb direct to a higher double bolt belay.

M S Davies 28/Jan/2010.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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User Date Notes
badgerjockey 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very lovely. Just about 5a, VS debateable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very lovely. Just about 5a, VS debateable.

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Guidebooks for Staple Edge Quarry (Ruspidge West Quarry)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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