UKC

42m.

Rockfax Description
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular (F7c). Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable but hard-earned protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back-up thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing. © Rockfax

FA. S.Monks, P.Bingham 16/Jun/1991.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , 100 Worthwhile E7's , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Originally did this in 2014, great to follow Nez today, brilliant route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Originally did this in 2014, great to follow Nez today, brilliant route.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Repeated
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Route of Interest
The Black Lagoon

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Huntsman's Leap)

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