Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular (F7c). Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable but hard-earned protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back-up thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing. © Rockfax
FA. S.Monks, P.Bingham 16/Jun/1991.
The Best of Pembroke
100 Worthwhile E7's
30 For My 30s
Please Login to view more details on the logged
Grade: E7 6b ***
Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers.
This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about
holds or gear.
If you don't want to see βeta then select 'Always Hide βeta' and the comments will be hidden for you. You can
set this in your User Options.
If you read a comment that you think contains crucial βeta then you can mark it as 'βeta' using the flag on
If you see something incorrectly marked as βeta, you can hide it by clicking on the word 'βeta:' on the
You can also copy any of your previous personal ascent comments to Public Feedback if they contain useful general
They can be edited before posting to remove
personal content if required.