After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 13/Nov/1977.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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