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Climbs 102
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Ali contemplating the hard bit on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis Head, Pembroke © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place for beginners and experienced climbers alike, with its steady scramble-in approach, tempting spread of grades and terrific fused limestone - the only thing wrong with Stennis Head is the fact that it's on the wrong side of the dreaded red flag!

The classics here include Hercules (HVS), Manzoku (E1) and the aspirational mega-route Pleasure Dome (E3) - quite possibly the best E3 in the land. Add to this the long, diagonal slash of Myola (HS), the hanging grooves of Stuntsman's Buttress, the Dream of White Horses-esque traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS) and the outlying corner gem of Bludgeon (HVS), and you have a recipe that goes down well on just about every visit.

Approach notes

Tidal on a handful of routes below the main cliff.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Just looked in my 1986 guide FA list. I noted 'supersedes Topless Woman and Stennis Grey'.
jon - 27/May/14
Loundsy, re your comment on Topless Woman: > this route appears in the 1982 supplement, but is not in subsequent guides. It climbs the area to the right of Hercules, possibly taking similar ground to Flash. (I'm not sure this route exists? surely its not climbed often) Flash does indeed supersede Topless Woman. I was on my own at Stennis Head one day when Nipper H and Martin Crocker appeared. I'd not met Martin before and Nipper introduced him as: 'The Bristol hot-shot'. I said 'I thought that was you, Nipper'. He replied 'So did I!' Anyway, Nipper made short work of Flash, a route that quite a few folk had tried, and Martin and I followed. My hazy memory is that there was possibly another route somewhere there that didn't have a lower section and that Flash may coincide with that too?
jon - 27/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

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