UKC

Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Ali contemplating the hard bit on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis Head, Pembroke © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place for beginners and experienced climbers alike, with its steady scramble-in approach, tempting spread of grades and terrific fused limestone - the only thing wrong with Stennis Head is the fact that it's on the wrong side of the dreaded red flag!

The classics here include Hercules (HVS), Manzoku (E1) and the aspirational mega-route Pleasure Dome (E3) - quite possibly the best E3 in the land. Add to this the long, diagonal slash of Myola (HS), the hanging grooves of Stuntsman's Buttress, the Dream of White Horses-esque traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS) and the outlying corner gem of Bludgeon (HVS), and you have a recipe that goes down well on just about every visit.

Approach notes

Tidal on a handful of routes below the main cliff.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

Just looked in my 1986 guide FA list. I noted 'supersedes Topless Woman and Stennis Grey'.
jon - 27/May/14
Loundsy, re your comment on Topless Woman: > this route appears in the 1982 supplement, but is not in subsequent guides. It climbs the area to the right of Hercules, possibly taking similar ground to Flash. (I'm not sure this route exists? surely its not climbed often) Flash does indeed supersede Topless Woman. I was on my own at Stennis Head one day when Nipper H and Martin Crocker appeared. I'd not met Martin before and Nipper introduced him as: 'The Bristol hot-shot'. I said 'I thought that was you, Nipper'. He replied 'So did I!' Anyway, Nipper made short work of Flash, a route that quite a few folk had tried, and Martin and I followed. My hazy memory is that there was possibly another route somewhere there that didn't have a lower section and that Flash may coincide with that too?
jon - 27/May/14
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