UKC

6137m. The Normal Route is a straightforward undertaking (PD-). From base camp at 4900m, a steep scree slope leads to a gentler approach along old lateral moraine to a glacier at 5400m (possible high camp in flattened spaces amongst rocks alongside). The glacier is crossed northeast to reach boulders then snow or scree as the ascent steepens to 35 degrees finally reaching the summit ridge in 4 - 6 hours from base camp. The summit itself is reached in a further 1.5 hours by walking and scrambling along the ridge. No serious exposure but some loose rock.

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