100m, 2 pitches.
The First ice line on the right hand side of the Headwall. Forms as a very thin streak of ice for 8-12m before joining a wider formation.
P1 35m WI6
Climb the short section on WI4, before reaching the narrow streak. Place some rock pro before delicately climbing. There are bolts if you can find them! Reach the wider but still thin ice above after approx 10m. Climb this for a further 20m as the angle gradually eases and reach a pin belay on the left.
P2 65m WI5
Traverse right from the belay to join the hanging slab of ice. Climb this for 10m before tackling the hanging curtain before the angle again eases with a few steps.
Can be continued for a further 15-20m to the source, no harder than WI3+
P1 35m WI6
Climb the short section on WI4, before reaching the narrow streak. Place some rock pro before delicately climbing. There are bolts if you can find them! Reach the wider but still thin ice above after approx 10m. Climb this for a further 20m as the angle gradually eases and reach a pin belay on the left.
P2 65m WI5
Traverse right from the belay to join the hanging slab of ice. Climb this for 10m before tackling the hanging curtain before the angle again eases with a few steps.
Can be continued for a further 15-20m to the source, no harder than WI3+
Raphael Slawinski, Pierre Darbellay, Eamonn Walsh. Mar/2008.
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Route of Interest
French Reality
Grade: WI-6 ***
(Stanley Headwall)