Rockfax Description
An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Over to the left of Idwal Slabs past the descent route, on its own buttress. 4-6 pitches. Excellent, sustained climbing between good belay ledges. The long traverse pitch rightwards to reach the right arête is more of a walk/easy scramble.
J.M.Edwards 1931.
Ticklists
Menlove Routes , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| curon | 23 Mar |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths. |
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| Abi_Davies | 19 Mar |
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βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended. |
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| Disco LeMond | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement). |
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| Puckle | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley |
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| kiopo | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1 |
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| samrad | 19 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes. | ||
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes. |
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| IWasJack | 7 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose. | ||
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βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose. |
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| climbingrev | 29 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!) | ||
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βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Sub Cneifion Rib
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Lockwood's Chimney
Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)