UKC Logbook - 'Sub-Cneifion Rib'

125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress. A great day can be had by climbing with you gear and walking right at the top to tackle Cneifion Arete.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Over to the left of Idwal Slabs past the descent route, on its own buttress. 4-6 pitches. Excellent, sustained climbing between good belay ledges. The long traverse pitch rightwards to reach the right arête is more of a walk/easy scramble.

J.M.Edwards 1931.

Ticklists

Menlove Routes , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List

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User	Date		Notes
Dave_27	28 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds.
pweh	7 Feb	Show βeta βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out.
Show beta βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out.
liensiwel	8 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing!
batterj2	13 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed.
curon	23 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths.
Abi_Davies	19 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended.
Disco LeMond	26 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).
Puckle	26 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley
kiopo	28 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Very loose flake on p1	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very loose flake on p1
samrad	19 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
Show beta βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
IWasJack	7 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
Show beta βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
climbingrev	29 Apr, 2019	Show βeta βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)
Show beta βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)