Rockfax Description
An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress. A great day can be had by climbing with you gear and walking right at the top to tackle Cneifion Arete.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Over to the left of Idwal Slabs past the descent route, on its own buttress. 4-6 pitches. Excellent, sustained climbing between good belay ledges. The long traverse pitch rightwards to reach the right arĂȘte is more of a walk/easy scramble.
J.M.Edwards 1931.
Menlove Routes , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Dave_27 | 28 Mar |
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βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds. |
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pweh | 7 Feb |
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βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out. | ||
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βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out. |
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liensiwel | 8 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing! |
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batterj2 | 13 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed. |
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curon | 23 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths. |
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Abi_Davies | 19 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended. |
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Disco LeMond | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement). |
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Puckle | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley |
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kiopo | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1 |
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samrad | 19 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes. | ||
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes. |
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IWasJack | 7 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose. | ||
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βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose. |
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climbingrev | 29 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!) | ||
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βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!) |
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Grade: VD ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)