UKC

65m, 3 pitches. Easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with juggy climbing through ridiculous roofs. Extra exposed. The second pitch was freed ground up on trad in 2005, and then accidentally retro-bolted in 2012. There was also evidence of piton scarring showing a previous aid ascent that went unrecorded.

FA: Aided by someone?
FFA: Pitch 2 Trad Version - Brian Burford & Adam Darragh 2000, Pitch 1 Sport Version - Mike Law, Vanessa Peterson & Neil Monteith 2012 - 2000-00-00
P1 (25m, 18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many ubolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.
P2 (30m, 20) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. There is a lower off on the lip, but it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there’s a pair Ubolts at the back of the ledge
P3 (10m, 12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right

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Route of Interest
Radioactive Man

Grade: 20 ***
(Medlow Bath)

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