UKC

Climbs 135
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Two jugs are better than one… Philatus E3 5c © Ben Richards

Crag features

The western section of Subluminal is a very friendly sea cliff, which has a substantial collection of good, lower-grade trad routes in a largely un-intimidating environment. This is a popular destination due to its ease of access, pleasant cliff-top ledges and sunny aspect - a fine place to climb, socialise and relax. 

In contrast, just to the east, and directly below the lighthouse, is the Black Zawn with its exceptional set of routes that require both commitment and experience. Just viewing these from the zawn rim above is a dizzying experience.

Bracketing Black Zawn are some large cliffs that compliment the two main areas well. The Lighthouse Cliff has some long single pitch mid-to-high grade lines, whilst the Avernus Area holds a number of rarely-climbed steep and hard trad pitches.

Approach notes

Drive through the centre of Swanage and pick up signs for Durlston Castle and Country Park. Drive to the Country Park car park (fee). Walk west along the tarmac road from the car park to the coast path and walk over to the lighthouse. From the lighthouse a path leads diagonally right (looking out) down the grass slope to cliff-top ledges directly above the western end of Subluminal. All of the areas require an abseil approach.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

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