UKC

80m, 4 pitches. The long-overdue girdle traverse. An excellent voyage following a break across the northern end of the crag. Well-protected throughout, with the difficulties every bit as engaging for the second as the leader. Climbs left-to-right. Begin with a short abseil from a good rock horn, down a grassy gully at the left end of the wall of Hairy Beast. This brings you to an obvious stance level with the midway belay of Veritas Splendour.

P1 - 4b 10m. Leave the grassy ledge and traverse by either a high or low line to the obvious belay ledge on the arete of Veritas Splendour.
P2 - 5a/5b 25m. Continue to the corner of Jamie Jampot, and then onwards across the wall of Digitalis and around the subsequent bottomless corner to the belay of India. Good ropework helps to reduce drag and prevent your second swearing at you towards the end of this pitch.
P3 - 5c 20m. Follow the slightly rising ramp out below a roof with increasing difficulty. Disappear around the corner via a reachy move (crux), stepping slightly downwards. Pull up to good holds and continue to belay at the big crack of Tree Route. This is the one with the tree on it.
P4 - 4a 25m. Beyond this the break becomes easier and approaches the top of the crag. Make your way along it until you reach the top of Fertility Right and belay while you contemplate how one might take a lower line on the 4th pitch to incorporate the walls of Angel of Sharkness and Hairy Mary.

Sin agad e.

Coinneach Rankin, Kevin Woods 23/May/2025.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Techno Snob

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Sgurr na Banachdich)

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