UKC

25m. Eliminate and contrived but with excellent climbing. Avoid straying onto Digitalis until the shared jug rest and avoid bridging or gear in Jamie Jampot. From the start of Digitalis climb directly up the wall (microcams essential) to a good undercut in a small obvious overlap. Move up and right (first crux) then back left to a big flake and rest. Continue straight up until level with the huge jug at the top of the flake on Digitalis, take this and rest. Traverse horizontally right (second crux) past a long flake (possible wires but would be hard to place), across India and to the arete. Climb the arete spectacularly but more easily and finish up the final crack of Arc of the Covenant.
Harder for the short. Could be 6b. Without wires in the central flake a fall for second or leader is serious.

Edward Nind and Masa Sakano 24/Oct/2016.

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Route of Interest
Heavenly's Pleasure

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Neist)

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