Climbs 60
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 384m a.s.l
Faces SW
Kelly leading pitch 2 of Cervo Di Piazza 6a © cider nut
Fairly solid, sharp, grey limestone for the most part. Tall crag (~200m in places) with a mix of single and multi-pitch climbs. Mostly bolted, Italian style, but also has some trad routes. Harder routes seem to be bolted well throughout, some of the easier routes are protected mainly by tatt threads and a fear of falling.
Park at the public carpark, just after the bridge and follow the painted flags on rocks. The scramble up to the track is easy. Follow the track for 5-10 minutes until you see an obvious path through the bushes on the right. This should bring you out just next to Paradiso.
A great destination. The bridge has been repaired so you can drive to the base of the pass. Sound of Silence is probably one of the more shaded routes on the north side, only starting to catch sun about 1pm in late April. It also appears to be by far the busiest route.
The Pietra di Luna guidebook topo is hopeless; use the photo topo in Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, or continue past the large gully halfway along the north wall and then turn off the path about 100m further along. A cairn (and scratched route names) marks the start... and if you see people on the wall they are probably on this route! jonny taylor - 02/May/10 |
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