A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a sinister and gloomy atmosphere and a spectacular finale. 1) N4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges. Continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.1a) N4+, 22m. A harder variation which has been used for years to avoid the crowds on the regular line sticks with the crack until a short traverse right gains the regular line - loose blocks.2) N4+, 14m. 'The Rubenson Traverse'. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall, on a line of superb jugs, passing a couple of pegs. Make an exposed move round the arete to a good stance and double-bolt belay.3) N4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove system on the left to reach the notch between the horns. Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Storhorn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay on gear on the Lillehorn. Take care with rope work on this pitch. © Rockfax
FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910.
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50
Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad
Lofoten Mid Grade Routes
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Grade: n4+ ***
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