UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

14m. A good climb with a stiff start. Start at the pillar left of the big terrace-level cave, 5 metres right of the groove of White Hart (2). Pull up, arrange gear in the big pockets and slots (friends useful), and make bold moves up the rib and slight groove to gain small ledges. Continue up the corner to the right, and trend slightly rightwards up the steep wall, with a good thread on the left as you near the top.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bitter Battle Tears

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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