UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

32m. Start as for Red Rose Speedway, but after a couple of metres traverse left along a ledge to the corner. Climb the corner to a ledge below a steeper headwall. Move up left onto another ledge, then climb the pocketed wall above to a ledge and an easier finish up a groove.

Please be aware that at the time of writing (June 2010) there is a very large loose block where the corner and the RRS ledge meet. It does not detract from the climb but care is needed for both climber and belayer alike.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 12
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tigers Don't Cry

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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