UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 19/08/2025  
Updated by UKC: 25th August

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A good, possibly better, variation on Red Shift, avoiding the mossy corner by taking the final wall of Dennis the Menace. Climb, as for Rhubarb, to the ledge, and continue into the cave above. Move up steeply on big holds, place gear as high as possible (large hex and small thread a little higher) then step right into the centre of the wall. Move up to clip the peg then make good technical moves to pass it and reach the saplings. Move back left and finish up the final part of Rhubarb.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
SGD 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this quite hard and it does feel a little contrived/escapable as the hs is so close on the left. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this quite hard and it does feel a little contrived/escapable as the hs is so close on the left.

Logged Ascents

18 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Wye Valley supplement 2012 Cover
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012)
The Climbers' Club
By various contributers
Symonds Yat Cover
Symonds Yat (2010)
The Climbers' Club
By Seven authors, including editor John Willson
Guidebook correction for this climb
5 users have this on their wishlist

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
We came, we saw, we organ grinded.
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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