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Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

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Games of Ambivalence, First Ascent © Bunchuk

Crag features

Taff's Well is a roadside crag on the outskirts of Cardiff, close to the M4 corridor. It consists of some big calcite walls mixed with areas of compact grey limestone. The climbs vary in style from short intricate face climbs through to longer routes - up to 35m in some cases - full of atmosphere and technical difficulties. Two other small crags close by have some less intimidating lower-grade lines and are further from the road and consequently quieter.

Approach notes

From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
This newish crag is awesome for low-grades. Really good grippy rock, enough to keep you entertained for an evening. Shame about the road noise but at least you can't see it.
adsheff - 20/Jun/14
Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
Headed up here last week. Crag is looking good, although some of the routes need to be cleaned up obviously hasn't had much traffic. Smells great, very strong wild garlic covering any nasty odours. Well worth a quick trip. Cheers.
hdjc90 - 27/May/13
the crag is in pretty good nick atm (spring 2012) im guessing due to the dry and warm winter meaning the sewage hasnt overflowed into it and seapage has been minimal. also the lack of tree foliage means that it is a sun trap all day in the current good weather we are experiencing. there is less loose rock and dirt than the other taffs well crags currently. it is hard to work out which route is which as there are more bolts than listed climbs, so an updated route list is needed.
Webster - 02/Apr/12
The smell is still here, but it's mainly coming from an area approaching the crag and you can only smell it now and then on the right hand side of the wall. The routes are a llittle dirty and slippery, but I guess with a little more traffic they could scrub up better. Best to get here early, as we got ot the crag early morning and the smell was not that bad, but was awful a couple of hours later when we were leaving. Definitely some sort of sewage smell possibly from the castle above.
bon - 02/Oct/11
Bit dirty, bit of a smell and a bit loose in places. With more traffic this crag will probably be just as rubbish. OK for a one of visit if you're in the area but nothing impressive.
James_86 - 04/May/11
There was a smell but only occasionally and not as bad as it had been made out to be
toby.pearce - 24/Mar/11
is that smell still there?
Laurent Moseley - 06/Jan/11
been to crag today and left after one route the stench was terrible!
ross duffield - 12/Aug/10
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers devo and Giles Davis