140m, 4 pitches.
Located halfway up the descent gully from the Pillars is a lone pinnacle with a striking corner crack.
P1 (5c) Access the corner crack, coming in from the right via a flake. Climb this strenuously until on top of it. 40m.
P2 (-) A rising traverse leftwards up the wide flake leads to a stance beneath a series of grooves. 35m
P3 (5b) Climb up, trending through the rightmost groove and continue up the slab above until a steepening (possible belay). Climb boldly through the bulge to a stance on top. 50m
P4 (4c) The leaning groove/crack through the final wall is a delight. 15m.
Descent: Walk left and abseil into the mini-gully behind the pillar. 35m.
P1 (5c) Access the corner crack, coming in from the right via a flake. Climb this strenuously until on top of it. 40m.
P2 (-) A rising traverse leftwards up the wide flake leads to a stance beneath a series of grooves. 35m
P3 (5b) Climb up, trending through the rightmost groove and continue up the slab above until a steepening (possible belay). Climb boldly through the bulge to a stance on top. 50m
P4 (4c) The leaning groove/crack through the final wall is a delight. 15m.
Descent: Walk left and abseil into the mini-gully behind the pillar. 35m.
James Moncrief and Simon Clements 22/Dec/2022.
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Route of Interest
The Sword of Damocles
Grade: E2 5c ***
(The Sanctuary)