UKC

Climbs 101
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle

Crag features

Tater-du lies to the west of Lamorna Cove and is the only greenstone cliff on the south coast, a cool relief after all those miles of sun-baked granite. An extensive an underrated cliff,  it has a long and firmly established tradition of climbing and was a great favourite of the Marines and Commando Cliff Assault Wing, who pioneered many of the routes in the 1950s. The majority of climbing is in the middle grades, with a few harder pitches in the Lamorna Wall area. Tater-du can be a splendid sun-trap, although after rain the rock takes on the frictional qualities of a wet bar of soap. The rock is generally more solid than it looks, although care should be taken with slight looseness towards the top of the cliff.

Approach notes

There is no right-of-way to Tater-du from any convenient point inland. Park in a field just west of Trevedran Farm (honesty box). Walk east along the main road for 200m. Turn right through a gate, and follow a public footpath through the delightful wooded valley to reach the coast path. Follow this east, over the prominent headland of Boscawen Point, for approx. 2km. The cliff lies just west of the lighthouse.

Tater-du can also be approached from Lamorna Cove, where cars can be parked (very busy at the height of the season) for a substantial fee. Follow the coast path west for 2km to a point above the cliff, a stiff half-hour walk.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Lovely crag, £8 parking puts me off coming back.
simoncov - 13/Jul/19
First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - 7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!
partz - 21/Jun/15
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Señor Último - 22/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

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