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Climbs 36
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Nearing the top section of Crinoid. © JonHarvey

Crag features

Also known as Parson's Hole, this quarry once housed a wonky telegraph pole and is one of the finest trad slab climbing venues in South Devon. Some vital pegs were replaced in 2015 and most others can be backed up with micro-wires and micro-cams. In addition, worthwhile DWS can be accessed from the quarry floor.

Approach notes

From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.

Follow a path rightwards across a flat, grassy area and through a walled arch (this is Rock End walk). Follow the path for 20m or so, then drop left over the fence, down a steep, narrow and earthy path that soon emerges on the cliff-top. Take the still-narrow path rightwards on the cliff edge to a stone wall with broken glass cemented on its top. Go through the collapsed section of the wall and scramble down to the flat base of the quarry.

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Guidebooks

Some of the stumps getting soft and crumbly July 14. Usable, but getting worse.
jayjackson - 20/Jul/14
Tree stumps useable December 2013.
JaffaCakes - 04/Dec/13
Tree stump belays still useable as of December 2011.
Dave 88 - 07/Dec/11
Tree stumps still usable May 2011, but as Quadmyre says they will rot away eventually. Worth considering bringing a set up line to make it easier to rig belays from the trees further back.
jayjackson - 18/May/11
Just been down to Torquay wondering about in the rain and all the trees at the top of Telegraph hole have been cut down. That makes the rim descent a bit more serious in places as it's quite muddy and no trees to hold on to but more importantly the belays for the majority of the routes are now gone. The stumps will probably be fine girth-hitched for a while but will inevitably rot away and without the roots the top of the crag is likely to start to erode. Not good. I assume this is connected with the coastguard watchtower which I see has been done up and now has a watchman in (rather than being an abandoned shack for tramps).
Justin T - 16/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

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