Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Tom Skelhon on Spectre of Love (6c+) on the Tremors Wall at Telpyn Point. © Mark Glaister
Set between Pembroke and Gower is this surprising sport climbing sea cliff venue. Telpyn, like its nearby neighbours Morfa Bychan and Pendine, offers plenty of sport climbs on well-equipped rock in a beautiful setting. The rock is a hard sandstone and provides both technical and strenuous lines. The routes close to the descent scramble are excellent and provide a good range of mid-to-hard grade routes that will appeal to many. Lurking around the corner is a wall with a totally different feel - radically steep, covered with stacked overhangs and only really appealing to those who like their sport climbing with a heavy dose of adventure.
The base of the cliff is tidal and can only be accessed for 4 hours on either side of low water. The Mollusc Wall can be reached by abseil and its base is usually above high tide in calm sea conditions. Three new abseil stakes have been put in close to the original stakes on 26/06/2020 and will need some time to bed in, check these before using.
From the roundabout on the A40 at St Clears, take the A477 to Tenby. After 8 miles turn left signed to Amroth, a small seaside village. From the seafront at Amroth, follow the road east towards Pendine for around 1.5 miles to a parking layby (with a large coastguard warning sign) on the right, just before the Carmarthenshire border sign, and opposite two gates. Follow a footpath down towards the sea, and as the path veers right, go down steps on the left to a small footbridge and over a stile. Continue along the coast path for 200m until a two metre high vertical wooden fence post appears on the right (there are lots of smaller fence posts). The cliff lies below this post. Walk down right from the post to good rock ledges above the cliff and scramble down below these (easiest to the right, looking out) to ledges at sea level. The cliffs are to the left (looking out).
Dates: 1 March to 1 July
Reason: Nesting BirdsA seasonal restriction is in place on 'Tremors Zawn' from 1st March to 1st July due to nesting choughs. This includes the following routes which are within 20m of the nest; 'Hullabaluh' to 'Spectre of Love'. 'Cave Wall' is far enough from the nest that there should be no significant disturbance if climbers are on this section.
|There is no longer a 2 metre high fence post to use as a way-marker on the approach as the guide/UKC states, so don't waste your time searching for it! Just walk up the hill for a couple minutes after the footbridge until you see a small path on your right, perpendicular to the main path, and go from there.|
The lanky man - 15/Sep/19
|Some dreadfully badly bolted routes here. Possibility of ground falls on several routes. Not as appealing to the mid 6s climber as it really should be for this reason. |
C@rwyn - 12/May/17
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