450m, 10 pitches.
10 pitches. Starts 10m to the right of the large block at the top of the scree fan. First pitch is 50m on a stretch and feels hard at 5c, there is an in-situ length of knotted rope on the bolt at the crux. The remaining pitches are easier, often easier than they look from below.
Some suspect holds and lots of loose rocks on the ledges so need to be very careful not to dislodge anything on teams below.
It has a short summer season and is best done after a prolonged dry spell as will remain wet after any rain as route is in the shade. Only really gets climbed during a heat wave. At which point it can get quite busy. When in condition it is an excellent choice. The 10th pitch can stay wet for a while, it is a descending traverse leading to a tree, when it is wet it will be harder for the second. You can skip it though and head down from the top of P9.
Descent is usually by abseil. You can walk off but it is not a great option. If you want to walk off, then you are best off looking at the neighbouring route 'Vol du Korbé'
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55261/fr/tete-de-bossetan-les-terres-maudites-maudits-bl-heros
It's down as a sport climb because it is well bolted - but it could just as easily be down as an Alpine climb.
Some suspect holds and lots of loose rocks on the ledges so need to be very careful not to dislodge anything on teams below.
It has a short summer season and is best done after a prolonged dry spell as will remain wet after any rain as route is in the shade. Only really gets climbed during a heat wave. At which point it can get quite busy. When in condition it is an excellent choice. The 10th pitch can stay wet for a while, it is a descending traverse leading to a tree, when it is wet it will be harder for the second. You can skip it though and head down from the top of P9.
Descent is usually by abseil. You can walk off but it is not a great option. If you want to walk off, then you are best off looking at the neighbouring route 'Vol du Korbé'
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55261/fr/tete-de-bossetan-les-terres-maudites-maudits-bl-heros
It's down as a sport climb because it is well bolted - but it could just as easily be down as an Alpine climb.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| endlessride | 21 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: A sport climb at 5c or an Alpine face at D+ ? It feels like it should be categorised under a sport climb but if things go wrong it will quickly feel like an Alpine face. These climbs are long, there IS stone fall to worry about and don't get caught out in a storm. It has proved fatal. More than likely you will have a rucksack or 2, for water, food and possibly trainers for the walk off. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A sport climb at 5c or an Alpine face at D+ ? It feels like it should be categorised under a sport climb but if things go wrong it will quickly feel like an Alpine face. These climbs are long, there IS stone fall to worry about and don't get caught out in a storm. It has proved fatal. More than likely you will have a rucksack or 2, for water, food and possibly trainers for the walk off. |
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Guidebooks for Tête de Bossetan - Les Terres Maudites
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Route of Interest
Sapeyrlipopette
Grade: 5c ***
(Le Sapey)