UKC

600m, 12 pitches. The powerful line of chimneys up the tight side of the face. The first route to climb the Baroness. Climb to the base of The Lady Pillar. Follow easily up right to the base of the wet chimney roof - The Tonya Harding Slot. Squirm up inside this and exit it. I thought this was E4 6b, but a chimney cat might well think E1 5b. Well protected with big cams. Next is an E2/3 5c sort of pitch. The next pitch laybacks a chimney and felt bold - E3 5b sort of thing, but again this is me, not used to this sort of climbing. Yosemite 5.7, I wouldn't be surprised. Easier again after these 3 pitches to the top.

Niall Grimes, Ian Hey Jul/2001.

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